Article Page - Sep 13, 10:27:32

How to detail - the akarei way

Step 1: pre - wash

- ALWAYS pre-wash.

- Whether it’s just a quick once-over with the jet wash or prep for something more serious, you want to get some of the dirt shifted before

you make contact with the paintwork at the wash stage, (it’s the best way to avoid any swirls.)

- Tackling a well-protected car during a weekly wash? - Use Yuki snow foam through a foam cannon jet wash attachment. Heavier contamination? - Choose Kumo shampoo.

Step 1: pre - wash

- ALWAYS pre-wash.

- Whether it’s just a quick once-over with the jet wash or prep for something more serious, you want to get some of the dirt shifted before you make contact with the paintwork at the wash stage, (it’s the best way to avoid any swirls.)

- Tackling a well-protected car during a weekly wash? - Use Yuki snow foam through a foam cannon jet wash attachment. Heavier contamination? - Choose Kumo shampoo.

Tip: Never pre-wash a dry car. Soak it first for better coverage. And don’t let your snow foam dry on the car, if it’s a hot day. Always rinse them off before they can dry.

Step 2: wheels

- Clean wheels = a clean look. They’re a visual focal point, so get them clean and then keep them that way with a spray sealant.

- Spray Senjō liberally onto the rims, avoiding the brake discs as far as possible. Work it in with a wheel brush, then allow it to stand for a few minutes. You’ll see it change colour as it reacts with the iron contamination – it will even help to soften tar blobs and loosen tyre marbles. Once the reaction is complete, rinse the rims thoroughly with your jet wash or hose.

- You may need a dedicated tar remover for stubborn tar spots or wheel weight adhesive residue.

Bonus Tip: Most wheels are clear-coated, like normal car bodywork, so you can clay them and polish them in the usual way. And even if you don’t, it’s always worth covering them in a protective product to guard the finish and make them easier to clean in the future.

Tip: Never pre-wash a dry car. Soak it first for better coverage. And don’t let your snow foam dry on the car, if it’s a hot day. Always rinse them off before they can dry.

Step 3: wash

Step 3: WASH

- A two-bucket wash should be the centre of your car care regime. It’s often the first point of contact with the car’s paintwork, so get it right and you’ll save yourself from a load of frustrating swirls.

- Get two buckets (cheap ones will do) and maybe a Grit Guard or two to go inside them, not essential though.

- Fill one bucket (wash) with soap solution (in our case, Kumo shampoo mixed approximately 1:400 with water) and fill the second (rinse) bucket with clean water.

- Then dip your mitt or sponge into the wash solution, apply generously to the car, then dunk it into the rinse bucket to get rid of the dirt. Check that it’s clean and free from grime, twigs or bugs before dipping it into the soap solution once again… apply, rinse and repeat.

- After the wash stage, rinse your car and dry it quickly before any water spots can form.

Tip: Always wash from the top of the car down, starting at the front. This ensures the dirtier back and lower sections are tackled last – preventing your rinse water being contaminated too soon. And if the rinse water (or even wash water) starts looking too brown, simply empty the bucket and refill. A minute here may save hours of machine polishing later. Oh, and don’t forget the door shuts and fuel filler cap – they may need a wash too!

Tip: Never pre-wash a dry car. Soak it first for better coverage. And don’t let your snow foam dry on the car, if it’s a hot day. Always rinse them off before they can dry.

Step 4: Trim & Glass

Step 4: TRIM & GLASS

- Trim often looks a little dull and patchy after a wash, so you’ll want to dress it with a suitable product. Follow the instructions from one of the various options on the market but it'll be something like this: Simply wipe on with a soft foam or microfibre applicator (being careful to avoid nearby glass), then buff to a dry finish immediately afterwards. It will help to protect rubber and plastic trim, whether smooth or textured, for weeks and months to come. There’s no streaking or run off like with some products. And you can also dress the tyres with it (sidewalls only), although these will need attention after every wash (they’ll simply get too dirty to avoid this unfortunately).

- For glass, reach for our Aozora spray. This is a solvent-based non-smear glass cleaner, best used with good microfibre cloth. Ensure the glass is dry, then apply Aozora liberally and buff until the pane is clean and free of all streaks, smears and surface contaminants. Use it inside the car, as well as outside, on all glass and mirrors. It’s also safe on sprayed window tints and tinted films (assuming they have been correctly applied initially). Once you’ve tried it, you’ll never go back to your old glass cleaning polish or spray - No dust, no fuss and incredible results…

Tip: Dark coloured cars and older vehicles may have more application issues, in coating terms. This is because their paint can become microscopically porous over time due to damage from sunlight (UV). This may result in smears, patchiness or other visual inconsistencies. Instead of trying to remove these (which may be quite difficult, involving strong solvents or even machine polishing) try masking them instead with an ‘overcoat’ application of a wax. Often the thick wax will hide the sunken oils and leave an even finish when buffed.

Tip: Never pre-wash a dry car. Soak it first for better coverage. And don’t let your snow foam dry on the car, if it’s a hot day. Always rinse them off before they can dry.

Step 5: interior

Step 5: INTERIOR

- Luckily, the interior of your car won’t be subjected to the same level of contamination and damage as the exterior. But you still need to keep it clean and looking good – after all, it’s where you’ll be spending most of your time.

- You’ll find that our interior cleaning spray, Kaizen, will be perfect for cleaning all hard and soft surfaces inside the cabin. Sure, you may want to use Aozora glass cleaner on all the windows, and Sakura quick detailing spray may add a little sheen to hard surfaces. For hard surfaces, a simple spray and wipe with a soft microfibre can be enough. Leave to dwell for a bit longer if needed but be careful with sensitive finishes like ‘piano black’ trim – if it is left too long it could react with the finish. For soft surfaces (upholstery, headlining, carpet etc.) you may want to use a little extra water and a brush to treat a whole panel. Spray Inni onto the mark, work in with the brush, then use a damp cloth or sponge and additional water to wet the panel consistently. Otherwise, you may end up with a water mark or obvious ‘clean area’. It may take a few sessions to remove deep stains or grime and a wet vac could be a good investment here.

- The wetter the interior, the longer it will take to dry, so remember to allow plenty of time before you use the car again (or use a dehumidifier to speed things up). If the driver’s seat is OK, you should be able to drive around with the aircon on a high fan setting to speed the drying process up.

Tip: Never use a high gloss detailer or dressing on the dash – it could cause nasty reflections when you’re driving, especially on sunny days. Our Silke detailing spray has a satin sheen and will be all the gloss you’ll need. Or keep it natural with our Inni interior cleaner.

Tip: Never pre-wash a dry car. Soak it first for better coverage. And don’t let your snow foam dry on the car, if it’s a hot day. Always rinse them off before they can dry.

Step 6: Maintaining the shine

Step 6: MAINTAINING THE SHINE

Once your car is detailed, you’ll want a simple guide to maintaining the finish. Here’s what we recommend:

- Daily: Watch out for bird mess. Remove it immediately with Sakura quick detailing spray.

- Bi-weekly: Time for a two bucket wash. Pre-wash with Yuki snow foam should be all the pre-wash you need. You’ll need to clean the wheels again (on sealed or waxed wheels your car shampoo should be strong enough, otherwise use Senjō wheel cleaner). Dress the tyres, but your trim should be OK. Clean the exterior glass and give the interior a little clean if needed. Use detailing spray afterwards for the final finish.

- Monthly: Top up time… we’ve assumed you’ve waxed or used a spray sealant, so you’ll have 3-6 months of protection already on your car. This protection doesn’t need re-applying but a few contaminants may have settled on, and embedded into, the finish. Plus, the initial oils or gloss may have disappeared. So, wash as usual, but use Sakura for an extra quick shine after the rinse – or dry as usual. This assumes you have a gloss-painted car, of course. Matt finishes just need a matt detailer as normal

.

- Quarterly: Removing and re-coating. Yes, once a quarter it’s best to deep clean the car and reapply the base layer of wax or sealant. Use Yuki as a strong pre-wash over all the car, but rinse it thoroughly and don’t let it dry on in hot conditions. Then two-bucket wash and clay, before polishing (assuming a gloss finish) and re-apply your wax or sealant of choice.

- Yearly: Make time once a year to fully machine polish your car, fill in stone chips and deal with deeper defects. Your interior may need a wet vac or steam clean as well, with wheels removed